A Novel Eggs-perience : Avian Flu and the Markets
This article will offer you some information on chickens, eggs, and some thoughts from our market farmers on the avian flu. We consulted Michael Deitering of Chubby Bunny Farm and Kevin Helfrik of Hell or High Water Farm.
A market photo from July 2023 of eggs from pasture raised hens.
“The Avian Flu has been a terrible but effective way to expose the population in general of the vulnerability of the modern American food system,” says Michael Deitering of Chubby Bunny Farm. “For many this has been a first, true, understanding of the scale of large agriculture, and the perils of relying on relatively few agricultural providers. While our farm is by no means immune to such a disease since our birds live in the wild, the instability caused by it highlights the need to support small-scale and local production of any agricultural product.”
Much like a Vegas casino, American grocery stores are seasonless. You can get tomatoes in January, Squash in the spring, and eggs whenever you want. Until you can’t.
Eggs have always been a seasonal food. Hens are sensitive to light cycles and temperature. They will naturally slow down egg production in the winter. Although many of the industrial breeds used in farming will continue to lay all year round (some laying up to 300+ eggs a year as compared to the 15 a year produced by their jungle fowl ancestors) they will drop regularity to conserve energy and take the holidays off. Much deserved, ladies!
When the hens are raised in large-scale indoor operations, they are not exposed to natural light or seasons and you won’t see a drastic drop in production. This can be very hard on their bones and bodies and usually after a year, the birds are “retired” and discarded.
In situations like this, illnesses are quite abundant and can wipe out thousands if not millions of birds rapidly. Even prior to the current outbreak of H5N1 or the strain of Avian Flu that has been going strong since 2022, hens in large-scale pens faired a lot worse than their pasture-raised cousins.
Chickens are very social animals and thrive when they get to run around with their flockmates. Hens who graze on fresh grass (a protein source) and insects tend to be happier and healthier than simply grain-fed. They also get more exercise and are stronger and less likely to get sick or eggbound (when the egg gets stuck in the cloaca, sometimes resulting in death).
What do we know about this outbreak?
H5N1 or avian influenza has been detected in wild and domestic poultry all across the world and has devastated flocks and farmers in the US since 2022. It has been crossing over to different species like cows, pigs, cats, sea lions, and some human beings who worked closely with live-stock on large scale farms. It’s spread, mostly, from migrating waterfowl like ducks and geese.
Needless to say, aside from the price of eggs being high and millions of animals needing to be “culled” or killed to reduce the spread, there is concern that this virus could become a larger scale problem if it becomes easily spread from human to human.
What are market farmers doing with this news?
“We take bio security very seriously when it comes to the transmission of potential pathogens between our flocks and the world at large. We maintain a closed flock, meaning we do not add any new birds to a flock once they arrive at the farm. We found that it is best practice to stay mindful and vigilant of how pathogens can spread. In that regard, I have a set of overalls and pair of boots that I wear specifically for working with the chicken chores. I always make sure to wear different clothes and boots whenever I visit local farm stores so that I don’t accidentally bring any pathogens home.” - Kevin Helfrik of Hell or High Water Farm
“This has reaffirmed our dedication to building local connections and resources. From the nearby brewer (Barley POP! Brewing), to a neighboring farmer who hatched out eggs for our newest flock, creating real connections increases our resiliency against issues outside of our farm. These connections may not be the most economical in a race to the fiscal bottom line, but are invaluable in times of need.” - Michael Deitering of Chubby Bunny Farm
NFM market staff are not cross-visiting farms when conducting inspections or farm visits.
Will egg prices go up at the markets?
This really depends on the individual farmer and their operation and costs. However, most of our egg prices tend to stay more steady than the grocery store. It seems grocery store and market prices are comparable at the moment.
It’s also good to remember that much of the cost of grocery store eggs is coming from shortages, production AND shipping costs. Many of these eggs are being shipped from much farther away and take forever to get to the coastal states. Our farmers are coming from closer farms.
“It’s my goal to make sure my birds live happy and fulfilling lives. I monitor there health every day. Our hens live 365 out in the open and are moved onto fresh green grass every other day. They have 5 acres to roam, forage, and explore. The price I set for my eggs is solely based on the cost of production. Unfortunately, the cost of quality feed has gone up substantially over the course of the last several years.” - Kevin Helfrik of Hell or High Water Farm
“For folks that are concerned with the price of eggs, I would recommend you simply inquire about it. For some large box stores, the company may be importing eggs, sometimes as far away as Türkiye! As for us, our costs come from the realities of a small scale producer. Based on 2025 expected costs, it takes almost a full season to break even on a flock, and that's only if a raccoon, owl or disease such as the Avian Flu doesn't impact production”
- Michael Deitering of Chubby Bunny Farm
Should market goers feel safe eating eggs, poultry, and dairy?
Yes! Just avoid raw foods for now. Buy pastureized dairy and thoroughly cook your food.
“Small scale production is all about the intricate knowledge of one's animals. Owner/operators become very connected with their flock or herd, and if one has questions, feel free to ask. We (producers) love to chat about the behind the scenes!” - Michael Deitering of Chubby Bunny Farm
“Yes. Although I can only speak for eggs, I am of the opinion that if you can talk to the farmer who is providing you with your food and shake their hand, you are doing much better than the average Joe or Jane who is stressing in a time like this. I have found that being open and honest about what’s going on with the farm address often engenders a level of trust between producers and customers that is near impossible at the grocery store.” - Kevin Helfrik of Hell or High Water Farm
Chicks are often up and pecking a few hours after birth.
What is your relationship with your flocks? Can you maybe give us some fun facts about chickens and or eggs?
“The flocks on the farm are more like co-workers than simply assets. From the morning wake up calls to the mid morning coffee break, I interact with the chickens about half a dozen times per day. This number goes down as the days get longer and there are more vegetables to tend to, but by then the flocks are more independent.
As for a fun fact about eggs, I tend to judge the quality of an egg not by it's yolk, but by the white. Additives can make yolks richer in color (or even red!) But a sign of a stronger hen is a more robust egg white. And the little white squiggly thing is actually called a chazala, which acts as a bungee rope holding the egg yolk in the center of the egg. - Michael Deitering of Chubby Bunny Farm
Is there anything else you would want the public to know about this matter?
“Small scale production is our greatest defense as a society from singular weak links in a food system. When production consolidates, a society may gain temporary economies of scale, but lacks a diverse robust agricultural industry. But also on a more human note, choosing to buy from a small farm creates a more meaningful impact. Rather than increase a corporation's earnings, it buys diapers. Rather than increase market share, it pays a mortgage. Your choice in supporting local doesn't just nourish yourself, but may be the difference in that family farm returning next spring.” - Michael Deitering of Chubby Bunny Farm
Here are resources you can use to learn more about the avian flu:
For anyone looking for a thorough exploration of chickens and raising practices, check out Tove Danovich’s book, Under the Henfluence.